Hidden in the far east of Turkey, right on the border with Armenia, Ani is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites I’ve visited on my overland journey. Often called the “City of 1,001 Churches”, Ani was once a powerful medieval capital and a major stop on the Silk Road. Today, its dramatic ruins sit quietly on a wide plateau above a deep gorge — remote, windswept, and incredibly atmospheric. If you’re interested in ancient history, abandoned cities, or off-the-beaten-path destinations in Turkey, Ani is an absolute must-see.
I reached Kars the day before on the legendary Doğu (Dogu) Express, one of Turkey’s most iconic train journeys. If you’re curious about the train ride itself — including sleeper cabins, food, and what it’s really like on board — I’ve written a detailed guide about it here: Taking The Legendary Dogu Express.
3 Quick Facts About Visiting Ani
- Entrance Fee: The entrance ticket to Ani costs 380 TRY (around 8 EUR). Tickets are bought on site at the entrance.
- Since 2016 Ani is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- Bring Sun Protection ☀️ Ani is vast, open, and almost completely exposed. There is very little shade, and you’ll likely spend several hours walking between ruins. Sunscreen, a hat, and enough water are essential — especially in warmer months.
Staying in Kars & Finding a Ride to Ani
I stayed at the Güngören Hotel in Kars, a simple but comfortable place that felt very local and welcoming. The price was 27 EUR per night, including breakfast — great value and perfectly located for exploring the area.
By pure coincidence, I met a friendly local driver and tour guide right at the hotel. Even better, another guest — a researcher from Scotland — was also planning to visit Ani the same day. We decided to share the ride.
The driver took us to Ani in about 40 minutes, and the cost was 25 EUR per person — very reasonable considering the distance and the flexibility of having our own transport in such a remote area. We could stay as long as we want and he would wait for us to take us back to Kars.
Exploring Ani on Foot: My Walking Route
Once inside Ani, I decided to walk a full loop around the archaeological site, taking my time to explore the ruins and enjoy the vast, open landscape. Ani is enormous, and walking it on foot really helps you understand the scale of what this city once was. On foot I recommend a time frame of 3–4 hours. However, you can do it faster and there is always the option to take a short cut back to the entrance. Additionally, I saw tour guides driving visitors around in golf buggies. That might be a great option for those who can’t walk that much.
You’re constantly aware of how remote this place is. Ani sits right at the edge of Turkey, with Armenia just across the gorge, and Georgia not far away. The deep canyon below forms a natural border, and the wide open plains give the entire place an almost unreal feeling — quiet, exposed, and timeless.
I entered Ani by walking through the ancient city walls, which immediately sets the tone for the visit. From there, I passed several remarkable ruins:
- Ani Oil Press Mill, a reminder that this wasn’t just a religious city, but a place of everyday life and production
- Church of Tigran Honents, one of the most impressive structures on site, famous for its well-preserved frescoes
- Church of the Redeemer, dramatically split in half, standing as a powerful symbol of time and decay
- The Cathedral, which was under construction at the time of my visit
- Menucihr Mosque, considered one of the earliest mosques in Anatolia, overlooking the gorge
From there, I climbed up the hill toward the Citadel, and this was easily one of the highlights of the visit. The views from above are breathtaking — endless plains, deep valleys, and ruins scattered across the landscape
On the way back down, I passed:
- St. Gregory Church
- King Gagik’s Church, once one of Ani’s grandest structures
Finally, I made my way back toward the city wall, completing the loop and exiting the complex the same way I had entered.
Final Thoughts on Visiting Ani
In total, I spent almost 3.5 hours walking around Ani, and it never felt rushed. What struck me most was how quiet the place was. I saw very few visitors, and everyone I noticed was Turkish — I didn’t hear any other foreign languages during my entire visit.
That quietness made the experience even more special. Without crowds, Ani feels deeply personal. I had time to stop, sit, look, and really absorb the atmosphere. I also had a few short conversations with local visitors — incredibly friendly, curious, and welcoming people.
Ani isn’t just a collection of ruins. It’s a place that makes you slow down, reflect, and imagine what once stood here. For me, it was one of the most powerful and memorable stops in eastern Turkey.
Berlin to Singapore Overland
📍 Kars / Ani
🛣️ Distance travelled since Berlin: 3,450 km