The Dogu Express – or Doğu Ekspresi – has become one of Turkey’s most iconic rail journeys — a scenic, affordable, and unforgettable way to travel deep into Eastern Anatolia. If you’re looking for some insights on this epic night train ride in 2025, this post is for you. In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know for taking the Dogu Express, along with practical tips and little stories.
Taking the High Speed Train from Istanbul to Ankara
I started my adventure in Istanbul (read my Istanbul post here), boarding the high-speed train to Ankara. I caught the morning departure from Istanbul Bakırköy at 08:53, and after a smooth ride across the country, I arrived in Ankara around 1 PM. The ticket cost 855 TRY (17 EUR), and the experience was comfortable, fast, and a perfect warm-up before boarding the legendary Dogu Express.
Ankara Train Station
Since my connecting train to Kars didn’t depart until the evening, I had several hours to explore Ankara YHT Gar, the city’s modern high-speed rail station. It’s huge, clean, and has everything you need — supermarkets, cafés, restaurants, and small convenience stores. I stocked up on snacks, fruit, and plenty of water for the long overnight ride ahead. If you’re doing this journey yourself, this is the perfect moment to prepare for the trip, because once you’re on the Dogu Express, food options are limited.
The Dogu Express is extremely popular, especially during holidays and winter. Tickets can sell out several days in advance. My biggest recommendation: book early. I paid 1,240 TRY (25 EUR) for my ticket and was glad I secured it ahead of time.
Dogu Express Departure from Old Ankara Train Station
While the high-speed trains in Ankara depart from the modern new station, the Dogu Express leaves from the old historic station, which sits right beside the new building. You just step outside and walk across an overhead bridge.
To my surprise, the Dogu Express arrived at the platform about one hour before departure, which gave all passengers plenty of time to find their carriages and settle in. My departure was at 6 PM, and the train rolled out of Ankara right on time, beginning its long eastbound journey toward Kars.
Boarding the Sleeper Car
Once I stepped onto the Dogu Express, the atmosphere changed completely — slow, nostalgic, and a bit chaotic in the best way. I had a four-berth compartment, and bedding was provided, so setting up my little corner for the night was easy.
My compartment mates were three Turkish men: two younger guys travelling with family members in nearby compartments, and an older gentleman. None of them spoke English, and I don’t speak Turkish, so I mostly listened while they chatted enthusiastically among themselves — I just wish I knew what they were talking about.
The Smoking Situation
Unfortunately, the older man in my compartment decided to smoke… inside the compartment. The air-conditioning spread the smoke straight into the neighbouring rooms, and soon enough a small argument started in the corridor. The train conductor came, voices were raised, hands waved… and somehow the older man won. The conductor left, and he kept smoking.
As a non-smoker, I couldn’t take it for long — so I relocated to the dining car for most of the journey, which ended up being a blessing in disguise.
The Dining Car: My Favourite Part of the Journey
The dining car on the Dogu Express is simple, but easily the coziest spot on the train. They serve tea, the most popular and cheapest drink on board, and I was invited for tea two or three times by some incredibly friendly Turkish travellers. This is exactly why I love overland travel — spontaneous conversations with strangers who quickly feel like friends.
Food options are very limited: sandwiches, snacks, and drinks, but no real hot meals. If you want proper food, definitely buy something before boarding.
People on Board the Dogu Express
Most passengers on the Dogu Express are Turkish, and I only met a handful of foreigners. Among them: two German bikepackers cycling all the way to Japan, full of stories and miles behind them already.
And then there was Yildirim, who lives in Germany but was returning to Kars to visit family. We shared cup after cup of tea, talking about life, home, and family — one of those meaningful travel moments you never forget.
Short Stop in Erzincan
At Erzincan, the train stopped for about 20 minutes. I hopped off to stretch my legs and check out the tiny shop on the platform, where you can buy bread, water, and a handful of essentials. It felt good to breathe some fresh air after so many hours on board.
The Famous “Kebab Delivery” at Erzurum
One of the most legendary things about the Dogu Express is the kebab delivery. About an hour before arriving in Erzurum, the train conductor walked down the aisle taking orders. Of course, I said yes — who could resist kebab delivered directly to your sleeper train?
The price for the special Dogu Express Kebab was 300 TRY, and when we reached Erzurum, the delivery guys passed the boxes straight into the train. Eating a freshly delivered kebab while rolling deeper into eastern Turkey? Absolutely unforgettable.
Arrival in Kars
After a wonderful journey through dramatic landscapes and wide open plains, the Dogu Express finally rolled into Kars. With a 2 hours delay I arrived at 10 pm. 28 hours that did not feel too long, I never felt bored. Happy, tea-filled, and full of stories, I stepped off the train ready to explore the far east of Turkey — a region that feels like a different world
Berlin to Singapore Overland
📍 Istanbul to Kars
🚅 Transportation: 1 high speed train; 1 night train
💻 Booked via: TCDD Turkish Railways
🛣️ Distance travelled since Berlin: 2,200 km